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Mandani Valley Trek 2021
Thanks for your Love and Wishes. This piece has been in writing for close to a year now. A chance discussion about trekking in Garhwal Himalayas in my marketing class forced me to finish writing this travelogue.
If you want to hear about my experiences, watch this podcast with Aru.
Mandani Valley Trek (9th October-17th October 2021)
After being struck at home for nearly 18 months during Covid19 lockdown, a couple of us decided to use a small weather window to attempt the Himalayan Trek in Mandani Valley, transversing from Ransi to Kedarnath via Mandani Temple. This 7 days-75 km trek of Ransi- Mandani-Yumbuk Col- Mahapanth Col- Kedarnath- Gaurikund is wonderful and covers camp-sites from 1800 to 4800 meters elevation. Our team of Atul Negi, Anul Shiggaon and Deepika Rathee was accompanied by Anuj Namboodri. Our trek support staff included Vijay Panwar, Vijendra Bisht, and Rajesh Bhatt from Ransi in Ukhinath.
Day 0- Rishikesh to Ransi Village
We used public transport to reach Ransi, including a bus, jeep, and some walk around the Ukhimath Bazaar.
Night stay at a small lodge in Ransi Village.
Day 1- Ransi to Sunera Bugiyal
After the last minutes of packing and a quick Darshan of Rankeshwari Devi, we set off for the first day of our 7-day-long hike across Mandani Valley. The initial climb is stiff as we pass the village and then some fields and eventually hit the trail going up. The climb is through the forest and occasional grass patches.
I have always felt that the first day is tougher as your body is yet to be adjusted to the vigor of the arduous physical effort. The views of the mountain ranges get better with altitude and ultimately, the cool breeze makes it bearable to withstand the sun.
We camped at Sunera Bugyal (30 35’58” N and 79 7’ 52” E) at 2850 mts with clear views of snow-capped mountains. One of my favorite pastimes especially if I reach early to a campsite, is to lie down and soak in the sun (Take a nap).
Day 2- Sunera Bugiyal to Paturi
After an unusually big breakfast, we moved on through the forest. Today, the trek was mostly through dense forest with occasional substantial ascents.
We camped on a narrow ridge mostly used by shepherds.
The dinner was around a special bonfire, also used to make hot tandoori rotis.
Day 3- Paturi to Thouli
The day started with a serious climb and almost felt like rock climbing in many parts. The entire day was spent navigating boulders that seemed to block the path.
Of course, the view was spectacular once we reached the campsite.
Day 4- Thouli to Mandani Temple
After an initial 2 hours or so of a steep climb, we hit upon a nice patch till we reached the crossing and began our descent to the valley below.
The downhill trek was equally strenuous though at least we were not out of breath as quickly as when we climbing.
Once we hit the bugyals, it was smooth sailing, just very long as we had skipped a campsite to crunch the trek into seven days.
The initial views of the Mandani Valley were like a sight for the tired body and soul. No words can describe the relief and bliss once we entered the valley.
Day 5- Mandani Temple to Yumbuk Base Camp
It was the Ninth Day of the Shardiya Navratra, so we offered our prayers to Goddess Mandani with fruits, dry fruits, and halwa. All of us felt reinvigorated for the days ahead.
It was going to be a tough day with a steady climb.
I have not seen a better campsite than the one at Yumbuk. It seemed ethereal, or perhaps the lack of oxygen can also make you hallucinate!
Day 6- Yumbuk Base Camp to Mahapant Sarovar
One of the toughest days lay in front of us as we had to cross two passes and navigate moraines and probably snow.
Another climb
Then, some snow covered valleys
Then some more rocks and snow!
Phew! What a day!
Day 7- Mahapant Sarovar to Kedarnath
We had an early start as we wanted to arrive in Kedarnath early to take in sights and possibly descend to Gaurikund for a next day early start to Rishikesh.
The climb to the pass was arduous and required continuous hopping around loose gravel and small boulders. The descent towards Kedarnath was equally difficult as we had to navigate loose mud and landslide zones. It also seemed as though not many travelers had used the trail during covid, so our guides had to navigate the most convenient path continuously.
The view of Kedarnath brought relief and spontaneous chanting of Jai Bhole!
I have been trekking in Uttarakhand Himalayas for the past two decades. However, most have been in a relatively narrow geographic region between Alaknanda and Mandakini River Valleys OR, more popularly, between Kedarnath and Badrinath. Of course, many of these journeys were uncertain, extremely arduous, and sometimes unpleasant. It also meant facing and solving problem after problem but let me tell you that some of these may have been the most meaningful journeys I may ever do.
I often recall a quote from an interesting movie titled “Into the Wild.” The lead character, Christopher McCandless, may quote Tolstoy and say, “If we admit that human life can be ruled by reason, then all possibility of life is destroyed.”
And follow his advice when he says - "When you want something in life, you just gotta reach out and grab it."
I Love You
Shailendra
OTM
Opportunities through MountainSpeak are available through the Friends and Family Trekking Initiative for joining the forthcoming Annual Summer Trek in May 2023.
You may want to join the WA group for more information and general preparation. Send me a message, and I will send you the group invite.